One of the most ancient cities of Azerbaijan, Sheki is rightly called the architectural reserve of the country and is one of Azerbaijan’s magnificent towns. It has a rich history and is one of the few places in the country where tourism can be described as even vaguely organized. Nowadays, Sheki is likely the most visited city in Azerbaijan, by both local and foreign tourists. Its setting, among the oak tree laden hills, means the weather is generally more comfortable here than other parts of the country. On top of which, there are a few notable attractions to see while in town.
Shaki is surrounded by snowy peaks of the Greater Caucasus, in some places reaching 3000–3600 m. Shaki’s climate includes a range of cyclones and anticyclones, air masses and local winds. The average annual temperature in Sheki is 12 °C. In June and August, average temperature varies between 20 and 25 °C.
The mountain forests around the area prevent the city from floods and overheating of the area during summer. The main rivers of the city are the Kish and Gurjhana. During the Soviet rule of Azerbaijan, many ascended to Shaki to bathe in its prestigious mineral springs.
Cultural Sights
The sturdy stone perimeter wall of Haci Celebi’s Nukha Fortress today encloses an 18th-century palace, several museums and a decent cafe-restaurant, all set in patches of grass that are kept mown by flocks of sheep.
The Sheki Castle
which was built by the founder of the Sheki Khanate Haji Chelebi Khan (1743–1755), near the village of Nukha on the southern foothills of the Caucasus. The fortress walls are close to a thousand and two hundred meters long and over two meters thick. Protected by numerous bastions, the fortress is entered by two main gates from the north and south. At the height of the khanate, the fortress contained a gated palatial complex and public and commercial structures of the city, while the residential quarter was situated outside its walls. It was restored extensively between 1958 and 1963. Many years Shaki fortress safeguarded approaches to the city, the acts of bravery by its defendants of fight with foreign oppressors had been written in many history books. In Leo Tolstoy’s well-known Hadji Murat novel, Sheki fortress had selected as place of events.
Khan’s Palace
Sheki’s foremost ‘sight’ is the two-storey Sheki Khan Saray (The King’s Palace), which was finished in 1762. It is located just up the hill from the Caravansaray, with a decent view over the city and is set in a walled rose garden behind two huge plane trees supposedly planted in 1530. The walled grounds (free entry) hold several building all belonging to the one time Khan of the land, and various other occupying forces. There are couple of museums that are generally not recommended for visit.
The stunning exterior of the Palace is masterfully decorated with dark blue, turquoise and ochre tiles in an array of geometric patterns, magnificently setting off the intricate wood-framed, stained glass windows known as shabaka. You’d think that alone would be a reward, but it’s TOTALLY worth it to pay the 2 manat (or so) to go in the Palace. A skillful tour guide (no extra charge) shows you around the fabulous interior, explaining the meaning of the magnificent murals, which cover the walls and even the ceilings. Easily one the most impressive building in Azerbaijan that you could see.
Only one-room deep, the palace’s interior is surprisingly petite. However, virtually every square inch is covered with extraordinarily colorful murals. These reach a climax in the central upstairs apartment which vividly features the heroic battles of Haci Celebi, complete with requisite swords, guns and gory severed heads. The ‘lady’s room’ to its right (as you face the window) is contrastingly pastoral, decorated with flowers, birds and arabesques.
The ‘lord’s room’ to the left has more ‘manly’ scenes of hunting, mythical beasts, and lions ripping antelopes to pieces. If you arrive after 6pm or want to see the fasade in glorious golden sunset light, the guard might sneak you in for whatever he thinks you’re prepared to pay.
Shaki hosts a wealth of historical museums and some of the most important in the country. The Sheki History Museum is one of the main museums, considered one of the most important for artifacts of the Khanate period.
More interesting is a Shabaka Workshop (admission free; 9am-7pm), where local craftsmen (no English) assemble traditional stained glass windows, slotting together hundreds of hand-carved wooden pieces to create intricate wooden frames without metal fastenings. Small examples are sold as souvenirs.
As of 18th century, five big Caravanserais (Isfahan, Tabriz, Lezgi, Ermeni and Taze) were active in Sheki but only two of them have survived. The upper and lower Caravanserais were built in 18th century and used by merchants to store their goods in cellars, who traded on the first floor, and lived on the second. Both Caravanserais includes view of all convenience and safety of merchants and their goods.
Even if you don’t stay here, peep inside the wonderful Karavansaray, an historic caravanserai with a twin-level arcade of sturdy arches enclosing a pretty central courtyard. A caravansary was a roadside inn in years gone by. A place for wary travelers to rest and eat. Caravansarys supported the flow of commerce and information on trade route stretching from Asia to the Middle East to Eastern Europe. This large 2-storey example has been superbly rebuilt to reflect it’s former glory. Rooms are simple, but all have western toilet and hot water. The historic atmosphere of the hotel is certainly worth. Even if you decide not to stay here, the tea garden is great way to experience the culture and still great some great photos of the hotel. Stride through the somewhat daunting wooden gateway door and if questioned say you’re heading for the restaurant in the garden behind, a lovely place for a cuppa with a slice of Sheki’s signature halva (pastry with nuts).
Immediately downhill is a second, even larger but partially ruined 19th-century caravanserai. Beyond, Sheki’s old town follows a canalized stream down towards the main square passing a pair of 19th-century mosques, numerous halva shops and a chess school with interesting metal reliefs on its outer walls. An appealing maze of red-tiled roofs and shady lanes lies behind.
The Taza Bazaar sells pottery, metalwork and carpets, as well as masses of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and cheese. Saffron is a bargain at just 50q a pouch. Get there by southbound minibus 11, 8 or 5. Sheki still has a working silk factory (kombinat) 50m west of upper Rasulzade kuc. It doesn’t allow tourist visits but opposite the entrance its store, Ipek Magazin (9am-6pm), sells attractively simple silk scarves.
KISH
Located approximately 5km north of Sheki, and with a population of only 6,244, the tiny village of Kish is a shadow of it’s once “mighty” glory. Walking the quiet cobble-stoned streets, you’d never guess that Kish’s story is one of an ancient history and of “great” regional importance. Today, not much happens here, but that’s the appeal.
In the 1st century A.D. St. Elishe, a disciple of Thaddeus of Edessa, arrived to a place called Gis, where he built a church and recited a liturgy. The church became the “spiritual center and the place of enlightenment of people of the East”.
It has functioned at different times as an Caucasian Albanian Apostolic church, a Chalcedonian church within the Georgian Orthodox Church and as an Armenian Apostolic church.
According to a Georgian historiographer, in the 10th century, the population of Kish converted to the Georgian Orthodox Church (Chalcedonism). The church of Kish was turned into a residence of a Georgian bishop, functioning till 17th century.[14] By the time when Russia took possession of the region the village of Kish had Udi population. According to Robert H. Hewsen, the Udi language appeared to have been prevalent north of Kura River until the nineteenth century, and the Armenian population appeared to be of relatively recent arrival. While many Armenians undoubtedly settled there fleeing the Turko-Mongolic invasions, many more entered the region with the coming of the Russians in the early nineteenth century.
In 1836, the Albanian church, along with all active churches in this region that were not Georgian or Russian, was incorporated into the Armenian Apostolic Church, and the Church of Kish was refounded in 1860s and became a place of pilgrimage due to the belief that it was associated with Elishe (Yegishe).
From these early beginnings, Kish became not only a religious centre, but a political capital. The regional capital was initially here. The kingdom revolved around this place for several hundred years. That is until nature stepped in. Several major flood caused them to move the capital down the hill to Sheki, where it later flourished. Rather similar to other mountain villages in the area, in terms of old stone houses and cobble-stoned streets, Kish had a certain “Je ne sais quoi” that others lack.
Peacefully set on either side of a valley, most of the alleyway are inaccessible to traffic. Other than the odd cow or chicken. There is plenty of opportunity to wander through the back streets catching a glimpse of everyday life. There’s no running water in the village, so everyone needs to meet at one of the well-springs to get water where they gossip about.
But there is much more than well placed stones here. Kish has something that most other villages of it’s kind don’t, a real tourist attraction.
The brilliantly renovated round-towered Albanian church (9am-8pm Tue-Sun) in Kish village has been lovingly converted into a very well-presented trilingual museum. It’s the best place anywhere to learn about mysterious Caucasian Albania, the Christian nation that once covered most of northern Azerbaijan. In fact the church site goes back well beyond the Christian era and glass-covered grave excavations allow visitors to peer down on the excavated bones of possibly Bronze Age skeletons.
The church of Saint Elishe, is sort of what brought people here to begin with. And while traces can be found of the original 1st century site, what we see today is an 800 year old construction. And actually, the Thor Heyerdahl Research Centre analysis of several artifacts dates the site as far back as 3,000BC
Finding the church is a piece of cake. The church is easy to find with well-marked signs, in English, pointing the way. Just have faith following them. When it’s time to turn, there will be a sign. Even being there at the height of tourist season, there was no one else there. You pay your 80 qapik/cents (or whatever) and check out the site. There are some artifacts in the Church, labelled in English. And although it’s not a great architectural achievement in human history, the surroundings are nice and the peace and quiet invaluable. On the site area a couple of unearthed graves. The skeletons unveiled are clearly different. Measuring some 6m tall, some theorist have concluded that Norsk people originated here.
In the delightful cobbled streets around the church you’ll find kids playing, old men sporting flat caps, and women fetching water in traditional guyum. There are some charming walks up the river valley towards the Gelersen Gorasan Fortress Ruins, though surrounding areas are being steadily invaded by new bungalow resorts for vacationing Bakuvians, such as comfortable Narin Qala Istrahat Zonasy. For something much cosier, do a village homestay. Tucked away in orchard gardens just three doors from Kish church is the delightful Ilhama’s Homestay (98417; bed-only/with food AZN5/10). The well-maintained shower and toilet are outside across the lovely orchard garden. Ilhama speaks some English.
Overcrowded day-time marshrutkas 15 and 23 run a few times hourly from Sheki’s Taza Bazaar (20 minutes). To find the church get off near the start of the village and walk 800m, looping round and following the signs.
Kish would easily be ranked as one of tourist favorite places in Azerbaijan. The air is clean, the people are friendly and the atmosphere is great, without question, if in the area, Kish is a must do for any traveller.
In 2000-2003 the Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs funded a joint project between Azerbaijan Architecture and Construction University and the Norwegian Humanitarian Enterprise for the archaeological research and restoration of the church of Kish. Dr. Vilayat Karimov of Baku’s Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography served as the director of excavations, and the archaeological advisor for the project was J. Bjornar Storfjell. Radiocarbon analysis of various objects found on the site showed that the cultic site found beneath the altar of the church dates to about 3000 B.C., while the construction of the existing church building dates to about the 12th century (990-1160 A.D.).
The existing church building cannot be dated to the times of St. Elishe, but the archaeological evidence demonstrates that the church is located on an ancient cultic site. It is very unlikely that St. Elishe built in Kish a church in the modern understanding of this word. Even if the person did exist, it appears likely that he built only the altar or used an existing pagan cult structure.
Bjornar Storfjell stated that there’s clear evidence that this church was built as Diophysite church. Excavations revealed that the church represented two different periods of use, with two different corresponding floor levels. According to Storfjell, since the architecture of the apse of the original church in Kish suggests a diophysite Christology, and since the Georgian Church was the only diophysite church existing in the Caucasus in the late medieval period, it seems reasonable to suggest that the Kish church was built as a Georgian church and was later taken over by monophysites.
HISTORY OF SHEKI
According to the Azerbaijani historians, the name of the town goes back to the ethnonym of the Sakas, who reached the territory of modern day Azerbaijan in the 7th century B.C. and populated it for several centuries. In the medieval sources, the name of the town is found in various forms such as Sheke, Sheki, Shaka, Shakki, Shakne, Shaken, Shakkan, Shekin.
The Sakas were an Iranic people that wandered from the north side of the Black Sea through Derbend passage and to the South Caucasus and from there to Asia Minor in the 7th century B.C. They occupied a good deal of the fertile lands in South Caucasus in an area called Sakasena. The city of Shaki was one of the areas occupied by the Sakas. The original settlement dates back to the late Bronze Age.
Shaki was one of the biggest cities of the Albanian states in the 1st century. The main temple of the ancient Albanians was located there. The kingdom of Shaki was divided into 11 administrative provinces. Shaki was one of the important political and economic cities before the Arab invasion. But as a result of the invasion, Shaki was annexed to the third emirate. An independent principality was established in times of a weakened Arabian caliphate. The city was also ruled by Georgian Kingdom, Atabegs of Azerbaijan and Khwarezmid Empire before Mongol invasion.
After the collapse of the Hulagu Khan’s rule in the first half of the 14th century, Shaki gained independence under the rule of Sidi Ahmed Orlat. Shah Tahmasp put an end to the independence of Shaki in 1551 and annexed it to Safavid Empire with brief periods of Ottoman rule in 1578–1603 and 1724-1735. Shaki Khanate was established in 1743, and was one of the strongest feudal states among the Caucasian khanates. During existence of Shaki khanate, the local population of the city was engaged in silkworm breeding, craft and trade. As a result of a flood in the river Kish, the city of Shaki was partially ruined and the population was resettled in the present day city. The Shaki khanate became a vassal of the Russian Empire in accordance with the second Treaty of Kurakchay of 1805.
The area was fully annexed by Russia by the Treaty of Gulustan in 1813 and the khanate was abolished in 1819 and the Shaki province was established in its place.
During its history, the town saw devastation many times and because of that, the oldest historic and architectural monuments currently preserved are dated to only the 16th-19th centuries. For many centuries, Shaki has been famous for being the center of silkworm-breeding.
Historic Sheki was originally higher up the valley around the site now occupied by Kish. That town was ruined by floods in 1716 but rebuilt by rebellious Khan Haci Celebi, who set up a defiantly independent khanate there in the 1740s. He built a second fortress at Nukha (today’s Sheki). When the original Sheki was obliterated a second time by more catastrophic floods and mudflows in 1772, Nukha became the new royal capital and the capital of Shaki Khanate. As the new location was near the village of Nukha, the city also became known as Nukha, until 1968 when it reverted back to the name Shaki.
The khanate was ceded to Russia in 1805 but Nukha continued to flourish as a silkweaving town and an important traders’ junction where the caravan route between Baku and Tbilisi met the cross-mountain branch route to Derbent in Dagestan. At its peak there were five working caravanserais here. Nukha was renamed Sheki in the 1960s.
